Squalane: a moisturizer that respects the skin barrier

Light, silky, and remarkably well-tolerated, squalane has established itself as one of formulators’ favorite moisturizers. What makes it unique is that it is very similar to a lipid that our skin produces naturally, which explains why it is so gentle on the skin. But to fully understand it, we must first distinguish it from its cousin, squalene.

Squalane is a biomimetic emollient similar to the skin's natural lipids: it moisturizes and softens the skin while supporting the skin barrier, without weighing it down. Here's what you need to know.

Squalene or squalane: What's the difference?

The two names sound similar, but they do not refer to exactly the same thing. Squalene is a lipid naturally found in the skin, where it makes up a significant portion of sebum. Although it is an excellent emollient, it has one drawback: it is unstable and oxidizes quickly upon contact with air.

Squalane is the hydrogenated—that is, stabilized—form of squalene. It retains squalene’s emollient properties but becomes stable and resistant to oxidation, making it the preferred form in cosmetics. Long derived from animal sources, it is now most often plant-based, derived from olives or sugarcane.

Why is it so gentle on the skin barrier?

It all comes down to its similarity to the skin’s lipids. Because it is biomimetic, squalane naturally integrates into the hydrolipidic film that protects the skin’s surface. It thus helps limit transepidermal water loss and maintain hydration, while strengthening the skin barrier, without any occlusive effect or feeling of heaviness.

It is also a non-comedogenic ingredient with a light texture, making it comfortable to use even for those with skin that is sensitive to oils. Squalene, from which it is derived, also has antioxidant properties that have been studied in cosmetic dermatology.

The Benefits of Squalane

Squalane offers several benefits. It moisturizes and softens the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and comfortable. It helps reduce water loss and support the skin barrier. Its lightweight, non-comedogenic texture is suitable for a wide variety of skin types, and it is exceptionally well-tolerated. Finally, it blends very well with other active ingredients, helping to deliver them and sometimes making their application more gentle.

For what skin types?

Squalane is one of the most versatile emollients. It nourishes and soothes dry skin; oily or combination skin appreciates its light texture and non-comedogenic properties; and sensitive skin benefits from its gentleness. It is also a great ally for skin whose barrier has been compromised by cold, sun exposure, or the use of potent active ingredients.

Squalene in PERS Skincare Products

PERS formulas contain squalene, a lipid identical to that found in the skin, which is present in several products in the line. It is found, in particular, in the PERS Rich Cream and the PERS Light Cream, where it contributes to the formula’s emollient and restorative properties, providing suppleness and comfort while supporting the hydrolipidic film. There, it works in synergy with other active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, allantoin, and panthenol.

Key Takeaways

Squalane is the stabilized form of squalene, a lipid naturally found in the skin. Biomimetic, lightweight, and non-comedogenic, it hydrates and softens the skin while respecting and supporting its barrier, without weighing it down. Well-tolerated, it is suitable for almost all skin types, from the driest to the oiliest. It is a subtle yet valuable emollient that works behind the scenes to keep skin supple, comfortable, and protected.

Scientific Sources