SPF, pollution, make-up: why a single cleansing may not be enough

Reading time: 6-8 min

Important note: this article provides general cosmetic and scientific information. It does not replace medical advice and does not constitute a diagnosis.

Why does it sometimes seem that "the skin isn't really clean"?

Some evenings, even after cleansing, the skin still seems "loaded": persistent film, less clear complexion, visually more marked pores, or a sensation of residue. This doesn't mean your skin is "dirty". It often means that what needs to be removed is not soluble in the same way.

In practice, your face accumulates two major families of residues:

• lipophilic: sunscreens, long-wearing make-up, sebum, particles trapped in an oily film
• hydrophilic: sweat, non-greasy dust, residues from water-based skin care products, etc.

For many skins, a single cleanser may suffice on a daily basis. But when SPF, urban pollution or make-up come into play, a one-step cleanser can leave behind a fraction of lipophilic residues.

SPF: why sunscreen is sometimes difficult to remove

Sunscreens are formulated to adhere to the skin and resist sebum, perspiration and sometimes water. This is precisely what makes them so effective... and what can complicate their complete removal with a simple aqueous cleanser.

Clinical studies have compared different cleansing methods (water alone, foaming cleanser, cleansing oil) to remove sunscreens, including water-resistant formulas. The results suggest that oily textures may be particularly relevant for reducing residues of certain SPFs.

Pollution: when particles "stick" to sebum

In urban environments, the skin is exposed to particles (including PM2.5) and various pollutants. The important point is this: particles don't arrive on their own. They settle and can become trapped in the lipidic film (sebum + surface fat).

Experimental models of "pollution trapped in sebum" have been developed to test the difficulty of eliminating these residues. They highlight a simple fact: when particles are trapped in an oily phase, the cleaning strategy must take this phase into account.

Furthermore, experimental data indicate that exposure to particles can disrupt certain skin barrier markers. In a skincare context, this reinforces the importance of effective yet non-aggressive cleansing.

Make-up: long wear = strong adhesion

Make-up (foundation, concealer, mascara) is often formulated to hold: pigments, polymers, film-forming agents. This performance means greater adhesion and, sometimes, more difficult removal.

The risk is not so much "the make-up" as the way you remove it: the more you rub, the more you irritate. Studies have shown that reducing the force of friction during make-up removal can be beneficial, particularly on fragile skin or skin prone to discomfort.

The physico-chemical rationale behind double cleansing

The principle is very simple: "like dissolves like".

• An initial oil/balsam step helps solubilize greasy substances: SPF, make-up, sebum, pollution trapped in a lipidic film.
• A second, aqueous step removes sweat, non-greasy dust and emulsifier residues, cleansing the skin without leaving a heavy film.

It's not a "fad". It's a pragmatic way of adapting cleansing to what the skin has actually worn during the day.

How to double-cleanse without weakening the skin barrier

Double cleansing can be very gentle... as long as you focus on precision rather than intensity. Two elements are particularly important: formulation (gentle surfactants, good rinsing action) and gesture (low friction).

Step 1 - Dissolve (without rubbing)

On dry skin, apply a balm/oil and massage for 30 to 60 seconds, without trying to "strip". Add a little water to emulsify, then rinse.

In keeping with PERS logic, Radiance Cleansing Balm is part of this first step: dissolve SPF, make-up, sebum and urban residues without rubbing.

Step 2 - Finalize (cleanse without drying)

Apply a mild aqueous cleanser, ideally soap-free and sulfate-free, then rinse. The skin should remain comfortable after drying: no "pulling skin" effect.

In keeping with PERS logic: Soothing Cleansing Gel is formulated without soap or sulfates to cleanse with precision while respecting the hydrolipidic film.

If you're looking for a structured solution: The cleansing duo combines these two steps in a coherent routine.

How often should I use it? The most reliable answer: "according to exposure".

Double cleansing is not compulsory morning and evening, nor every day for everyone. It becomes especially relevant when you've worn :

• sun protection (especially long-lasting)
• make-up (especially long-wearing)
• or if you've been exposed to an urban/polluted environment.

For very dry or sensitized skin, the most comfortable approach is often to reserve double cleansing for the evening and keep the morning very minimalist.

Maintaining skin balance: the point most often made by science

The literature on cleansers emphasizes a central principle: cleanse effectively without altering the barrier. A good cleanser must not just "remove". It must also limit its impact on stratum corneum hydration and surface lipids.

In other words: a well-formulated and well-executed double cleanse can be more respectful than an energetic one-step make-up removal, if the latter induces more friction or leads to repeated cleansing.

Scientific sources

• Chen W et al. The optimal cleansing method for the removal of sunscreen: water, cleanser or cleansing oil (2020).
• Hosokawa K et al. Rubbing the skin when removing makeup is a skin problem: reducing rubbing force with cleansing oil. (2021).
• Peterson G et al. A robust sebum, oil, and particulate pollution model for evaluating cleansing efficacy. (2017).
• Kim BE et al. Particulate matter causes skin barrier dysfunction (PM2.5, filaggrin, skin barrier). (2021).
• Mukhopadhyay P. Cleansers and their role in various dermatological disorders (2011).