Dry skin in winter: what does science have to say about the skin barrier?

Reading time: 6-8 min

Important note: this article provides general cosmetic and scientific information. It does not replace medical advice and does not constitute a diagnosis.

Why does skin become drier in winter?

In winter, skin dryness is not just a question of "cold". The most constant factor is often drier air: lower humidity outside, indoor heating, rapid variations between outside and inside.

The result: the skin loses water more easily, and the hydrolipidic film becomes less stable. You'll soon notice: tightness after cleansing, rough patches, widespread discomfort, sometimes even redness.

The key point: when the environment is dry, the skin needs a more effective barrier to limit water loss. This is precisely the aim of a well-thought-out winter routine.

Does cold really damage the cutaneous barrier?

The cutaneous barrier is based on a simple architecture: cells (corneocytes) and, between them, a lipid "cement" composed notably of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. When this balance is compromised, water evaporates more easily and the skin becomes more reactive.

The literature shows that the lipid composition of the stratum corneum varies with the seasons, with a drop in lipids (including ceramides) recorded in cold weather, which can contribute to winter xerosis (dry winter skin).

The practical consequence is simple: in winter, you're often better off opting for more protective textures and "repair"-oriented formulas, rather than an overabundance of exfoliating active ingredients.

What are the signs that your skin barrier is weakened?

Your skin gives you very concrete signals. The most frequent in winter:

Tightness after showering or cleansing
Roughness (less smooth, flaky skin)
Discomfort at the end of the day (especially with heating)
Redness or tingling sensation with products that are usually well tolerated.

The trap? Wanting to "strip" to restore radiance. In winter, this reflex can exacerbate dryness, as already fragile skin is less able to tolerate repeated exfoliation.

Winter cleansing: why is "gentler" often "more comfortable"?

In the cold season, cleansing must remain effective, but not aggressive. A cleanser that is too harsh not only removes impurities, but also some of the lipids that help maintain the skin's barrier. The skin is left "bare", and discomfort sets in.

The winter version of double cleansing

If you wear SPF/make-up, or live in an urban environment, double cleansing can be interesting... as long as it remains respectful.

Step 1: a balm that dissolves greasy substances (SPF, make-up, oxidized sebum) without excessive friction.
Step 2: a gentle cleansing gel that completes cleansing without "pulling" the skin.

In keeping with PERS logic: Radiance Cleansing Balm is used in the evening to effectively remove accumulated impurities, while Soothing Cleansing Gel completes gentle cleansing.

Which active ingredients are best suited to winter repair and protection?

An effective winter routine doesn't try to be all things to all people. It focuses on three main objectives: moisturizing (attracting and retaining water), soothing (reducing discomfort) and reinforcing (stabilizing the barrier).

1) Humectants: attract water and limit dehydration

Glycerine and hyaluronic acid improve hydration of the stratum corneum. In winter, they are particularly useful... provided they are "framed" by a cream that limits evaporation.

In line with PERS: ,Light Cream uses hyaluronic acid and a daily moisturizing approach, with the aim of providing comfort and balance.

2) Repairing and soothing: supporting the barrier when it "cracks

Panthenol (provitamin B5) has been documented to support hydration and barrier repair, while improving the sensation of comfort. Allantoin is also used for its soothing and supportive role in fragile skin.

In line with PERS: the Rich Cream combines panthenol and allantoin in a regeneration-oriented "cocoon" approach, useful when winter makes skin more demanding.

3) Lipids and protective textures: reduce water loss

When the air is dry, the challenge is not just to add water: it's to keep it in. Richer textures, which better mimic lipidic comfort, are often better suited to colder periods, or to skin that feels tight.

The right indicator is simple: if your skin "drinks" your cream and becomes uncomfortable again within the hour, this is often a signal that you need a more protective formula.

What PERS routine should you adopt in winter for dry skin?

Here's a simple framework, designed to support the barrier without complicating your daily routine.

Morning: protect and limit evaporation

Cleanse with (or simply rinse if your skin is very dry).
Moisturize: choose an appropriate texture (light if your skin remains comfortable, rich if it pulls).
Daily protection: even in winter, UV protection remains a useful reflex (especially UVA). In PERS logic: Protection SPF50+ in Jelly .

Evening: cleanse without stripping, then repair

Radiance Cleansing Balm (if you wear SPF/make-up or urban pollution).
Soothing Cleansing Gel to finish.
Rich Cream if skin is uncomfortable, sensitized or very dry. Alternatively, Light Cream if you're looking for more airy moisturizing comfort.