Understanding and treating spots: advice from Magali Calmon

Reading time: 6-8 min

Magali Calmon is the director of an aesthetic medicine clinic in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. Through her experience, Magali accompanies her patients prior to treatment, but also provides a caring post-treatment follow-up. As Skin Expert for PERS, she shares with us her analysis of one of the most frequent reasons for consultation: hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation: why does the skin "mark"?

"In my day-to-day practice, I find that pigmentation spots are often seen as an inevitability. And yet, biologically, spots are a signal. It's the result of a disturbance in melanogenesis: faced with aggression (UV, pollution, acne, hormones), the melanocyte produces an excess of pigment to protect the skin's deeper layers."

The result: this natural shield becomes disordered. Whether we're talking about solar lentigos, melasma or post-inflammatory marks, the mechanism is the same: overproduction and poor distribution of melanin.

The key point: treating a blemish means acting on the entire pigment cycle. We don't just "erase" the surface, we re-educate the cell.

The science behind even skin tone

Skin radiance relies on the even reflection of light. Scientific literature identifies a key enzyme in the pigmentation process: tyrosinase. .

To correct skin tone in the long term, not only must this enzyme be curbed, but the skin must also be protected against oxidative stress. "My experience has taught me that the skin barrier must be respected: too aggressive a treatment can provoke inflammation which, by rebound effect, will aggravate spots."

The practical consequence is simple: an effective anti-spot strategy must combine antioxidants, melanin regulators and accelerated cell renewal..

What are the most effective active ingredients according to Magali Calmon?

Clinically, I recommend molecules whose efficacy has been rigorously documented by science:

• Vitamin C: neutralizes free radicals before they stimulate the melanocyte. It's the essential shield.
• Retinol: the star ingredient of renewal. It brings pigment clusters to the surface and eliminates them.
• Niacinamide: invaluable for limiting pigment transfer to surface cells and soothing inflammation.

The vital importance of follow-up and protection

The success of a treatment depends not only on the procedure performed in the clinic, but also on rigorous follow-up care at home. The sun is the primary activator of blemishes. Without daily sun protection, correction efforts are in vain.

In line with PERS' philosophy: Protection SPF50+ must be applied every morning. Even in the city, even in winter, UVA rays continuously stimulate tyrosinase.

What routine should I adopt to combat dark spots?

Here's the skincare structure I recommend for my patients to achieve an even, luminous complexion.

Morning: Anticipate and Protect

1. Cleanse with Soothing Cleansing Gel for a healthy base.
2. Antioxidant correction (Vitamin C) to block environmental stress.
3. SPF50+ Sun Protection to prevent pigmentary reactivation.

Evening: Repair and Renew

1. Double Cleansing: essential for removing sun filters and urban pollution.
2. Retinol care: to accelerate cell turnover and smooth skin texture.
3. Rich Cream: to soothe and nourish skin during its night-time regeneration phase.

The key point: be patient and kind with your skin. Uniformity is earned over the long term. A routine diligently followed for 12 weeks offers far more lasting results than any quick fix.